Cypriot Wine: History in a Bottle
Mosaic of Ikarios leading an oxcart loaded with wine, located in the House of Dionysos in Pafos (dating from the 2nd century AD)
‘Wine,’ observed Scottish novelist Robert Louis Stevenson, ‘is bottled poetry.’ I think Robert was onto something there! Drinking good wine is one of life’s great pleasures. Especially if accompanied by good food and good company.
Me and Mrs G had the good fortune to holiday in Pafos, Cyprus in the spring. And the even greater fortune to return a few weeks ago. In addition to the great restaurants, fabulous beaches and lovely walks, a real eye-opener was the range and quality of the wines on offer.
Local grape varieties are thriving, new grapes have been introduced and quality is on the up.
A little history
But how did Cyprus get to this point? Let’s take a quick dive into the history of Cypriot winemaking.
According to legend, Ikarios, a citizen of Athens, was the first mortal to be taught to make wine. By the god of wine himself, Dionysos. This was an act of gratitude for the hospitality Ikarios showed him on his arrival in Attica.
This, no doubt, got things off to a good start in the winemaking business and Ikarios rode about in an oxcart, distributing this precious gift of the gods. It’s safe to assume that news of this discovery reached Cyprus soon after, if the mosaic featured above is anything to go by!
More concretely, there is solid archaeological evidence that wines were made in Cyprus as long as 5,000 years ago. Possibly the first site in the Mediterranean for this noble craft. And the exciting discovery of a shipwreck off the coast of Cyprus in 1999, dating from the 23rd century BC and carrying around 2,500 amphorae of wine to, it is thought, Greece or Egypt, suggests the island was a major exporter of its wines by this point.
This probably stems from its strategic location in the eastern Mediterranean, situated between Europe and Asia, which made it an important trading hub. And helps explain its attractiveness to a succession of foreign rulers – including the Phoenicians, Greeks, Egyptians, Romans, Saracens, Byzantines, Crusaders, and, finally, the British in the late 19th century.
Unsurprisingly, the Cypriot wine industry has had its ups and downs over the centuries. It gained prominence during the medieval crusades, as European traders discovered the sweet dessert wine known as Commandaria. Helped along by the comment made by King Richard the Lionheart at his wedding that it was, ‘the wine of kings and the king of wines.’
Sadly, the production of wine came to a virtual halt during the Ottoman occupation, which began in the 16th century, as a result of the Islamic tradition that forbids the drinking of alcohol. Vineyards fell into disuse. But it was given a boost when the British Empire ‘acquired’ Cyprus in 1878.
This change of ownership happened in parallel with the destruction of much of European viticulture by the Phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century. Luckily, Cyprus evaded this blight because of its strict quarantine controls. And it means that many of the vines of indigenous varietals such as Mavro, Xynisteri and Maratheftiko grown today are the older, original plantings. This makes Cypriot wine unique in the world.
The late 1970s saw the production of mass-produced, blended wines targeted at northern Europe and the socialist bloc countries in eastern Europe. But these markets began to dry up in the 1980s as consumer tastes changed and collapsed completely with the fall of communism.
The winds of change
Things couldn’t go on as they were. And the decision was made to radically overhaul the Cypriot wine industry to ensure its survival.
New grape varieties were imported – including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carignan – which were considered more suitable for high-quality wine production aimed at overseas markets.
The government introduced financial incentives for the creation of small, regional wineries located close to their vineyards (to raise quality by reducing the distance grapes traditionally travelled from vineyards in the summer heat).
And a new Appellation of Origin was launched in 2007 (based on EU wine regulations):
Table wine. Similar to French vin de table.
Local wine. Similar to French vin de pays. 85% of the grapes must originate from registered vineyards in the specific geographical regions: Lefkosia, Lemesos, Larnaca and Paphos.
Protected designation of origin. The most prestigious designation, indicating a higher quality product.
The taste of Cyprus
The result has been spectacular. And the industry continues to grow. Learning as it goes along. And recognising that the incentives offered in the early nineties to uproot local grape varieties and plant foreign grapes may have swung the pendulum too far towards imported varieties. That rather than trying to compete with foreign-produced varietals, it’s preferable to focus on making superior wines with an original Cypriot character. Focusing on quality rather than quantity.
Today, Cyprus’ wine culture is experiencing a renaissance as a new generation of winemakers rediscover indigenous grapes and employ modern techniques to produce world-class wines that reflect the unique climate and mountainous terrain.
And to help visitors find their way around this proliferation of new ‘boutique wineries’, the Cyprus Tourism Organisation has developed a series of seven glorious wine routes. These are highly recommended! Hire a car. Get a map. Enjoy!
Good wine makes good cheer
And one of my personal favourites? The wines of the award-winning Kalamos Winery, conveniently located ten minutes walk from where we were staying! Situated in the picturesque village of Amargeti, in the hills north-east of Pafos, they produce a fine set of high-quality local wines – reds, whites and rosés – based on both indigenous and foreign grape varieties.
The Genari is particularly good. A full-bodied red, it’s produced from the local grape varieties Maratheftiko and Ofthalmo. Aged in French barrels for twelve months, it has complex aromas and flavours of black cherry, black pepper and vanilla. Not to be missed!
In the course of a very pleasant tasting session, we were introduced to their wines by the owner’s nephew and had a fascinating conversation with the owner himself, Thanasis Ignatioy, about the history of the winery. He said, ‘We’re very pleased with what we’ve achieved so far. We will always take inspiration from the past. But are excited to be taking the winery in new directions.’
Amen to that. I should also mention that Kalamos make an excellent range of zivanias (the family business started out as a distillery). This is a traditional Cypriot spirit, made from the skins and stems left over after the grape pressing. It packs a punch! Not surprising with an alcohol content of 45%. And is reputed to cure colds, numb toothache and keep you strong…
Wine is life
The history of Cypriot wine is a tale of resilience, revival, and reinvention. And it’s lovely to see Cyprus’ wines winning greater recognition from wine lovers around the world.
As the old Spanish proverb has it: ‘With wine and hope, anything is possible.’ I believe this has universal application and look forward to our next trip to this lovely island rich in both history and culture!